First try at surfing in the waves since the hammy injury...2 months ago.
It was so nice to be in the water with my board.
I was a little apprehensive. Actually, I was a lot apprehensive but I paddled out and brushed aside my fear of retearing the hammy.
It felt so good when I pushed myself and tried a little bit more. In the end, I could sit on my board, paddle out, duck dive, paddle over and through waves, paddle on to waves, slide down the board to avoid a dump on the closeouts and cut across the wave. I was lying down the whole time as standing up wasn't really a go on the small but dumping waves.
I got out feeling good and tired.
No photos just feelings.
27/5 I had such a good sleep last night and I actually slept in to 6:30am. I decided to make it a take it easy day. Later in the morning...
I had a great wander around this morning checking the surf in a number of spots - Wamberal Beach, Blue Lagoon, Shelley Beach, pelican Beach,...
I woke early and drove with lights on so it was pretty early. I passed the beaches and there was enough light to see that it was an onshore ...