First try at surfing in the waves since the hammy injury...2 months ago.
It was so nice to be in the water with my board.
I was a little apprehensive. Actually, I was a lot apprehensive but I paddled out and brushed aside my fear of retearing the hammy.
It felt so good when I pushed myself and tried a little bit more. In the end, I could sit on my board, paddle out, duck dive, paddle over and through waves, paddle on to waves, slide down the board to avoid a dump on the closeouts and cut across the wave. I was lying down the whole time as standing up wasn't really a go on the small but dumping waves.
I got out feeling good and tired.
No photos just feelings.
Subscribe to:
Post Comments (Atom)
CENTRAL COAST - 4 TO 11 MARCH 2023
4 MARCH I woke and unloaded and tidied the van. I drove Jacinta to the Hens party for Chloe at Glenworth Valley. Back home and I tidi...
.JPG)
-
Balian is tourist/surfer enclave on the west coast of Bali. It is a black sand beach with a river cutting the beach into two. There is also ...
No comments:
Post a Comment