Thursday, March 17, 2016

OCEAN BEACH SURF - 17 MARCH 2016

First try at surfing in the waves since the hammy injury...2 months ago.

It was so nice to be in the water with my board.

I was a little apprehensive. Actually, I was a lot apprehensive but I paddled out and brushed aside my fear of retearing the hammy.

It felt so good when I pushed myself and tried a little bit more. In the end, I could sit on my board, paddle out, duck dive, paddle over and through waves, paddle on to waves, slide down the board to avoid a dump on the closeouts and cut across the wave. I was lying down the whole time as standing up wasn't really a go on the small but dumping waves.

I got out feeling good and tired.

No photos just feelings.

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