First try at surfing in the waves since the hammy injury...2 months ago.
It was so nice to be in the water with my board.
I was a little apprehensive. Actually, I was a lot apprehensive but I paddled out and brushed aside my fear of retearing the hammy.
It felt so good when I pushed myself and tried a little bit more. In the end, I could sit on my board, paddle out, duck dive, paddle over and through waves, paddle on to waves, slide down the board to avoid a dump on the closeouts and cut across the wave. I was lying down the whole time as standing up wasn't really a go on the small but dumping waves.
I got out feeling good and tired.
No photos just feelings.
RILEYS BAY HIKE - ROCKY POINT TRACKS MTB - OURIMBAH TRACKS MTB - KINCUMBA MOUNTAIN TRACKS MTB - 21 NOVEMBER 2017
18 November 2017 Today, I had a hike at to Rileys Bay. It was an undulating hike that pasted through areas of mangroves, pockets ...
I woke early and drove with lights on so it was pretty early. I passed the beaches and there was enough light to see that it was an onshore ...
I drove over to Patonga on this morning. Patonga is a pretty small town nestled on a small area of land between Patonga Creek and Brisb...