SULAWESI, MINAHASA HIGHLANDS - MARKET, VOLCANO AND TEA FOR TWO - 11 JULY 2017

Kara and John are now in gili meno @ gazezbo meno.

A beautiful sunny morning. We had breakfast and Denny, our driver in Sulawesi arrived to take us on a tour of the area (600 000R).

First stop was the Tomohon Markets. This market has a variety of foods. The meat section is very different from any other market I've been to in Indonesia. On display were pigs, fish, bats, rats, snakes, cats and dogs. It's what some people there eat. It was sad and I must admit upsetting to see cooked dog and live dogs in cages ready to be cooked. I had a strong urge to buy the dogs and set them free far away from the markets but that would only encourage the seller to get more dogs.  The rest of the markets had spices and fruit. A half coconut shell of palm sugar wass selling for 12 500R. - very cheap.

The second stop was Mahawa volcano. The parking area was about 15 minutes walk from the crater rim. We climbed the steep stairs and walked track along the rim of the crater. The track was paved part of the way and the pavers were very slippery. The path turned into a dirt/mud/rock track after that. Surprisingly, the track was thick and heavily overgrown with vegetation making this hike very adventurous. There were great views along the way looking down into the steep sided crater with a sulphuric lake in the centre. The views looking across the countryside were stunning with views of Tomohon city and Manado on a backdrop of the ocean and islands. In two places, there was a raised platform which you could climb via a ladder for an even more expansive view. Along the way, we met a group of students from Tomohon and a couple from Gorantalo.

Our third stop was a restaurant on the shores of Lake Tondano called Mou Chou. It was very impressive. We walked through the entrance and down wooden steps and to a long wooden walkway that divided into three directions, We followed the walkway straight ahead which passed a number of rectangular areas which were open at the base to the lake. Each open rectangle had a net in the water which was full with carp of the same colour. There were many open areas and nets full of fish around the restaurant. We reached a large eating and chose a seat at the far corner overlooking the lake. The whole massive restaurant was built on bamboo poles with sturdy wooden floors that creaked a lot over the lake. Amazing!. The food was excellent being fried fish, vegetables and rice. While we were sitting there, a guy paddled past in a very rough dug-out canoe with a very dubious bow. The photo says a thousand words on this one.

Next stop was a monument to Jesus and Minahasa history. A large high circular tower was depicted in pictures of Christianity and the Lord's Prayer in English and Indonesian. A number of stone pillars that lined either side of the paved entranced were engraved with pictures and words of Minahasa history.

Next, we visited a water sports park at Rembokan that had no water sports. Still, it was a nice park on a point that jutted onto Lake Tondano. We wandered around the paths and met a nice couple also enjoying the walk. The girl was studying German at the local university.

We stopped at a pottery village, Pulutan and watched a young fellow decorating a number of pots. The village has a large community kiln which they all share for firing. Good idea.

It took awhile to find, taking turn off after turn off down narrow and infrequently used roads before we found a hot water spa in Koya village. There was a large pool of steaming sulphuric water at the entrance. Pipes lead from the pool to small shallow pools which water as allowed to sit and cool to varying temperatures. The spa pools for sitting in were in small private rooms and were fed with water from the shallow pools outside. If you wanted it hotter you called out lebih panas - more hot. The spa wasn't exactly a luxury resort but it was simple and very relaxing in the water. All for 10 000R.

The last stop was Lake Linow ( entry fee 25 000r per person which included tea/coffee). The lake was  sulphuric and it changed colour throughout the day due to the angle of the sunlight. We sat on the restaurant deck overlooking the lake and enjoyed a cup of tea then we had a short stroll around part of the lake edge.

Back to Mountain View Hotel for a few beers, dinner and sleep. Such a great and full day.

INDONESIA - FLORES - MONI - 8 to 10 September, 2014 - 'UP IN THE MOUNTAINS'

Info

Bintang Hotel - 350 000R

I had my own bike but transport locally in Moni to Kelimutu was expensive

The journey

After the early morning swim at Paga Beach, I rode off on my motorbike in the direction of Moni. The day was clear and the road easy. The road shortly began to rise steeply giving a great view back along the coastline.

Continuing onwards, I came to the turnoff for Koka Beach. The road quickly deteriorated to a narrow walking track with piles of gravel stacked every few metres providing an obstacle course as well. I eventually reached a sandy parking area and settled my gear in the middle of the beach. The scenery and water colour was amazing. The water was various clear shades of blue and the two beaches joined together to form a short sand spit to a rock island. I went for a swim and then was approached by an old, finger-thin local fisherman for the 2 000R parking fee. It was a bit annoying as he kept hanging around after I paid. Gradually, more appeared and joined in the look at me and I look at them scenario. I left Koka beach, returning along the ‘road’ until I reached the Trans Flores Highway again.

The road soon started to rise and it kept rising into the mountains. Along the way, there were great aerial views across the mountains and down to the sea, a number of small villages, some road works and the odd avalanche. The people were friendly along the way with ’hello mister’ the catch cry.

It seemed a very long time that I was riding along the steep and curvy roads until I reached Moni. At first impression, I was disappointed as there was a traffic jam of bemos and bikes with abundant exhaust fumes. Navigating through these obstacles, and up the hill, I reached the Bintang Hotel. I met Billy the owner and was soon settled into my room.

I now had a chance to soak in the awesome mountainous views. Billy provided me with info and after food and rest I hiked up the hill to the waterfall.

At the Rainbow Café, there was a track leading down and into the jungle. I soon reached the waterfall and a rickety bamboo bridge. I crossed the bridge thinking I was going to fall off and climbed down the rocks and waded into the waterfall pool. The water was cool and the waterfall about 30 metres high cascaded in a single drop into the pool. I swam and then rested in the mountain sunshine.

I eventually, continued along the track to a small village and stopped at the Agnes Restaurant for a bite to eat. Later, I continued along the path which soon became a concrete road and passed through another village then turnoff onto another road and back on the main highway. From there it was a short and uphill walk back to Moni.

The next day, I was up early. I organised myself then started the ride uphill towards the turn off for Kelimutu. The ride was great but very cold! I stopped for a while watching the sunrise over the mountains, passed though the outskirts of a few villages and wounded my way up the mountain. I reached the ticket office and paid the fees and continued along the 180 degree curved road which was lined by steep jungle.

The end of the road was a large car park that was virtually empty. I parked the bike and walked up the steps and along the path to the craters of Kelimutu.

The crater lakes were amazing. The sides of the cones were 90 degrees steep and very deep. The water in the lakes were of three different colours – black, turquoise and dark blue. The path meandered along alpine vegetation leading to a number of vantage points over three craters.  The end of the path was the highest point with an obloquie on the top. I climbed that and had a great view of the three craters and the surrounding mountains that were shrouded in clouds with the peaks exposed – magical! I sat there for a long time!

I followed the path back and rode the bike back down the volcano to Moni.

I rested through the middle of the day then set off again on the bike to find the convent in the direction of Ende. I didn’t find it but I had a great time just riding along pass rice fields and stopping in small villages for short chats. I did reach the turn off for the longer way return to Maumere. I t looked good but isolated. On the return, I took a turn off to a traditional village and was given a tour for 20 000R. It was very good and I learned that the centred of the village was a graveyard which I wasn’t allowed to enter and the coned thatched roof wooden houses encircled the graveyard.

I met some nice people at Moni. Everyone seemed to be in pairs – French Canadian couple who needed to find an ATM, Dutch couple from Utrecht, two very young German girls to name a few and of course, Billy who was very friendly and helpful.

The following morning I was up early, paid the bill and was on the road again back to Maumere (if possible) in one hit. I followed the same road back as accommodation the other way seemed limited or non-existent.

New Zealand - Auckland - Rangitoto Island - 31 December 2009

We caught a 9:15am ferry from the quay to Rangitoto Island. It was a pleasant trip looking over the harbour and islands that dotted the bay.

Rangitoto Island is a dormant volcano, which erupted and formed the island about 600 odd years ago. Not very old!

The ferry pulled into a small wharf and we slowly disembarked and walked along the pier to the road leading to the start of the summit track. The walk took about an hour to reach the summit with increasing better views as one climbed higher. Along the way, there were lava flows and low vegetation. Towards the top the vegetation thicken and became lusher.

The summit view was excellent. A large walking platform provided a number of different viewpoints of the area.

On the way down, we detoured to the lava caves and crawled through one of them. Lots of fun! It was a bit narrow in parts and the rocks were cuttingly sharp. A torch is necessary.

We had a fast walk back to make the 12:45pm ferry return to the city.

Indonesia - Bali - Gunung Batur - 2009

Gunung Batur is a large volcano with a lake at the bottom of the crater with a group of smaller volcanic cones.

There are villages on the upper rim from Penlokan to Penulisan. A road leads down to the bottom of the crater from Penlokan. There are a number of villages at the base of the crater – Buahan, Kedisan, Toya Bungkah, Songan and Toya Mampeh.

There is an entry fee for entering the base of the crater.

What to do

Trunyan is a Bali Aga village
Get a boat – cemetery – different customs – Pura Pancering Jagat

Toya bungkah
Hot springs – Tirta Sanjiwani Hot Springs Complex
Volcano climb – mainly for the sunrise and to see the other smaller volcanoes – this can be approached also from Pura Jati, Songan or Kintamani
Danau (lake) Batur
boat ride from jetty in Kedisan - swim

Songan
Pura Ulun Danau Batur – market gardens

Kintamani
View - market

Penulisan
views - Pura Puncak Penulisan

Penlokan
Amazing views from nice restaurants.

Where to stay

There are hotels/restaurants in the villages along the rim at Penelokan and Kintamani.

In the crater, there are accommodations at Kedisan and Toya Bungkah.

Note We stayed in Kedisan for about four nights. It was very quiet, enjoyable to explore and very scenic.

Best Points: volcano climb, walking around the area, views

Worse Points: sellers to a degree.

Indonesia - Bali - Gunung Batur - a volcano trek - 2009

The tour can start from any venue in Bali but the cost will vary. It can be booked at any of the hundreds of tour agencies in Bali or arrange your own transport and hire a guide at the base car park at Gunung Batur. Purchasing on the web or at an agenct in your homecountryWe started at Ubud and the tour was 250 000 r person. This included pick up and drop off at your hotel. For the trip you need shoes, warm top, comfortable walking clothes, torch and water. A reasonable level of fitness is required though there are lots of rest stops.

The driver picked us up at our hotel at 2 am driving for approximately one hour to reach the car park at Gunung Batur. At this point we met our guide. The torches provided weren’t very good but we had our own. The trek up to the crater edge to Gunung Batur 1 is in the dark. The walk is reasonably graduated and it becomes steeper in the last ½ hour. There are many points to rest along the way. If you need more rests tell the guide. Once you reach the top you are covered in perspiration which becomes icy cold with the altitude and cold breeze. You are now glad you have a warm top. If you are still cold there is a shelter to huddle inside from the wind.

The sun gradually rises from approximately 6 am. The mountains (Gunung Abang and Gunung Agung) and misty Danua Batur come into view with the increasing light. The sun rises over Gunung Rijini in Lombok as a fiery red ball. The ever increasing light creates a magical scene of the nearby and distant scenery. While you have been watching this glorious procession, your guide has been preparing a breakfast of banana jaffle and egg using volcanic heat.

Not long after the sun rises the mountain monkeys appear. During the cold night they have been huddling in the nearby volcanic crater next to a heat vent for warmth.

The next stage of the trek is an easy level walk along trails to Batur II and views of Batur III. Batur erupted periodically in 1999 to 2000.

The trail down starts on loose volcanic sand which makes for a comfortable step/slide down the steep track. Eventually, the track joins with the upward trail, leading back to the carpark and your waiting driver.

Worse points: getting up early

Best points: views and feelings of achievement.