MUNDUK, BALI - MOUNTAINS, HIKES, FOOD - 28 SEPTEMBER TO 1 OCTOBER 2019

MUNDUK

COSTS

Car Balian to Munduk - 500 000r

Car Munduk to Balian - 500 000r

Nadya homestay – 500 000R per night includes breakfast

Temple tour - 350 000r not including temple tickets

Pura Ulang Bratan - entrance fee 50 000r per person

Various waterfalls – 10 000r or 20 000r entrance fee.

NYOMAN'S STORY

We left Balian and had  a pretty drive through the mountains to Munduk. Along the way, Nyoman told us a story of the first arrival of the Javanese Hindus to Bali. A beautiful story!

Long ago a holy man guided a group of people to the island of Bali from Java. They settled there and tilled the land but soon they caught a sickness and they all died. The holy man returned to Java and after much meditation he discovered that they needed to make an offering by burying four precious metals in the earth. He returned to Bali with a much larger group of people and buried the offering in the earth at where Besakih stands today. The group survived, spread across Bali, mixed with the local Bali Aga people and tilled the land. They learnt that they must make offerings so that did not get sick again.

Nyoman explained this was why there are so many offerings for every facet of their life so that remain healthy.

THE MOUNTAINS

THE ROOM

We settled into our room at Nadya Homestay on arrival.

Jacinta was very happy with my choice. A large very clean room with a spacious bathroom. The bed was a large four poster with a drooping white mosquito net. There was a glass wooden slide door to the balcony with a view across the valley and a mountain peak beyond. We could view this as we laid on the bed. Pretty!

In Jacinta’s words to me, ‘I done well!”. That is a big than big compliment from my darling.

 THE FIRST HIKE

Our first hike was down the road from our hotel and towards the rice fields. It was a steep walk along the road with motorbikes, cars and trucks either zooming or podding along. A turn off to the right and we were on a narrower and quieter road.

We passed houses with small gardens and cloves drying in flat spaces in the sun.

We reached a dirt track on our right and traversed along it. We passed ricefields and stands of clove trees. The path ended leading to homes and farms. Looking up we could see our hotel perched on the side of the thickly vegetated ridge.

We back tracked ascending the steep incline back to our hotel.

THE BIG HIKE

Our second hike was a long one. We followed the main road at Munduk up and up and up. The traffic was roaring past, the temperature was increasing, shade was limited and the road just seemed to keep getting steeper. A not so fun start.

We reached the track that lead to the waterfalls.

The track was fun to walk along. We passed trees, pretty and compacted homes and small warungs. The track was cemented in parts and natural in other parts. There were many steps leading up and down the ridges. Some of these steps were well maintained and others very rough. No steps seemed to be of the same height. So it was like one small step, one medium step then one ridiculously high step, etc, etc. Good for the calf muscles.

The three waterfalls we visited were stunning. They were high and the water dropped with power as it plummeted down the slick cliff edge to a pool of water. The force of the water resulted in a strong wind being generated with horizontal rain fron the waterfall spray. Very cooling!

I had a swim in one waterfall pool. It was cool and refreshing.

The luckiest thing about our hike was the lack of people at each waterfall we visited. The first waterfall had a crowd of about twenty people but they were leaving as we arrived. Then we had it for ½ hour on our own. Lucky!

The waterfalls were nice to sit and rest near. We soaked our feet in the water while eating our nut mix, drinking water and admiring the drooping vegetation of the waterfall canyon. Two of the waterfall had been modified with beautiful and subtle flower gardens that blended in so well with the natural greenery.

There were also a number of sturdy bamboo bridges to cross over at the falls and along the walking track.

The hike took us about four hours and was a wonderful experience.

THE LAST HIKE

Jacinta had a big sleep in. When she woke we had breakfast then a short walk/hike. Well, in the end it wasn’t short and not a walk.

We followed the road downhill from the hotel and continued straight where previously we had turned right. The homes very so unique being build in various precarious positions, Some were on solid ground with a huge drop off the edge, others on concrete stilts about three storeys off the ground, others were layered on top of other floors that didn’t seem to match in style and others that5 were relatively normal.

The road was festooned along its edge in places with beautiful flower arrangements either small and subtle or large overhanging blooms.

We took a turn to the left following a small waterway but it came to a dead end after 20 metres.

Further along the road we took another turn off to the right that according to Google Maps was a rice field track that lead back to our hotel. We took the track and it traverse around a hill through terraced corps of rice and cloves. It reached a sort of dead end but we continued onwards much to the annoyance of two dogs who barked viciously at us as we walked through their territory. The path a short while later dissipated but we continued sliding and traversing down the terraced slope till eventually there was nowhere to go but back up. We ascended the hill and eventually found our way back to the barking dogs. This time the dogs were aggressively unamused and added a bit vicious sentiment to the barks and snarls.

We were back on the path and backtracked our way back to the hotel.

THE TEMPLE TOUR

We organised an afternoon tour with the hotel to see a few sights.

The driver drove us up and up from Munduk until we levelled out on the crater ridge on the extinct volcano. We stopped at a lookout spot to view the two crater lakes below. There were wooden seats and tables to have a coffee while we viewed the lakes and volcanic backdrop.

Next stop was the temple on the edge of Lake Bratan. The parking lot was packed with cars , buses and motorbikes. The temple grounds were crowded with a massive amount of older Indonesian students. Some of them were very noisy. The actual temples were locked and there were no ceremonies or anyone dressed for ceremonies.

Okay it was not going to be a magical mystery tour where one could seek and witness the divine. Still, it was nice looking at the architecture, the smaller island temples and the stone carvings on the temple walls. The lake and volcanic cliffs were such a pretty backdrop especially as it was shrouded in mist and clouds.

Next stop was the traditional market. A few fruit stalls were opened but overall most stalls were closed and covered with a trap and there were only a few people wandering around.

An early morning tour would be better. Going by car was good as the road was so steep, narrow and windy. There was also a lot of traffic and it was raining on parts of the high ridge.

THE FOOD

Munduk had great local food and where we stayed there were a lot of restaurants. We ate lunch and dinner at different venues to spread our money love. I was impressed with the satay sauces and a dessert called kelok pisang which was sliced boiled bananas in a mixture of coconut and palm syrup. It was sooooo good!

The restaurants and warungs had great views of the mountains and valleys. The hosts at every establishment were friendly and very appreciative of having their food complimented.

INDONESIA - SULAWESI - MAKASSAR - 2 TO 4 JUNE 2014 - 'HOT IN THE CITY'

Info

Kenari towers – 0411 873 476 - aircon room with sea view 500 000R

Taxi – Makassar airport to hotel 110 000R

Car/driver to Bira – 800 000R

Becak cycle tour 100 000R – seems relatively a lot but it was for five hours and it was hot and it was a long way.

The journey

I arrived at the domestic airport in Bali for my flight to Makassar, Sulawesi. The domestic airport was then at constant change due to the upgrading of the facilities. It was an easy check in with Garuda and after a flight delay of ½ hour I was up, up and away.

The flight was good as Garuda provided in-flight entertainment and a meal which was included in the price.

I arrived at Makassar airport. In very little time, I was at the taxi stand organising transport to my hotel. The road from the airport was wide and modern but deteriorated closer to the city centre into a warren of crowded streets.

I arrived at the Kenari Towers Hotel and chose the second room they showed me. It had a huge bed, aircon, TV, and a partial sea view of the harbour. It was very clean. So far so good!

It was near sunset so I caught the elevator the 7^th (top) floor where there was a restaurant with a commanding view over Makassar city. I had dinner and a few beers and met a local couple who were babysitting their nephew. The sunset was pretty and with darkness the lights of the city began to twinkle around me with their added reflection on the sea. Really nice but it was still very hot!

My sleep was broken due to the air con and mosque. I wasn’t loud but ear plugs helped.

I woke early and caught the elevator to the roof for the sunrise. I watched as it burned its way over the urban horizon. The temperature was already on the up.

I had breakfast at the hotel and had a chat with a nice Indonesian family.

Down to the reception and I booked a car for Bira at 8am the following morning.

I walked down to the nearby waterfront. The waterfront was a wide concrete area that stretched along the coastline between the ocean and the main road. It was adorned in statues depicting various features of Sulawesi life with stairs at various points that lead up and down to various concrete features. The ocean water was dirty with floating rubbish but still the vista of the harbour was pretty and serene. The waterfront was called Lestari Beach but there was no beach. Hmm!

I couldn’t help but notice that I was being followed by a cheerful, persist and beckoning becak (cycle with sitting seats) driver as I walked along the waterfront. I ended up hiring him for 100 000r for a city tour. He was a bit of an idiot but the tour was fun. He has a wife and one boy.

The Tour

Our first stop was Fort Rotterdam which was cool. The fort has large walls with a walkway that skirted along the top of the exterior wall. Inside the fort were a number of buildings and grassed areas. At the large entrance gate, I was greeted by another guide (100 000r) whose name was Rusli Amin He was very informative and gave me a stack of advice, insights and information on travelling in Sulawesi. 

After the fort, the becak drove for ages into oncoming traffic. I pointed this abnormality to the driver but he just smiled. I decided it was better to let him look ahead than to distract him. Generally, it was a bit disturbing but fun!

The next stop, was the Chinese area. After a brief look, I lost interest and onwards we cycled.

It was a long ride to the fish market harbour. It was a challenge not to step in mud or fish crap as well as avoiding sliding on the tiles of the fish market which was covered in fish blood. It was very grotty, smelly but the people were friendly. I liked it!

Next was the cargo boat harbour. There was a 5 000R entry fee. We walked along the docks looking at the various boats. He pointed out that one of the fishing boats was going to Bira, my next destination. They actually offered me transport in the boat if wanted. I didn’t want.

Next was the traditional market. At this stage, I walked as it was too awkward to ride the becak through the closely packed crowd. It was very interesting but by this time it had become intensely hot. It was time to end the tour.

He cycled the bike back through narrow streets, traffic and eventually, the main road to the hotel.

At the hotel, the driver tried to convince me the tour was 100 000r per hour. I laughed and gave him 100 000r plus 50 000r even though I personally thought he was an idiot but still a fun guy. He taught me a few local phrases which I used as we cycled around.

a-pa-kar-re-ba = how are you?

Bugi = good.

Chick-a-lee = person

Later, after resting, I walked over to the waterfront to the mosque for sunset. The mosque was truly a beautiful building. It was built over the water sitting on huge concrete columns with two entrance bridges at the north and south ends connecting it to the waterfront walkway. I walked across one of the bridges, removed my shoes and wandered around. I met heaps of locals and was in heaps of photos. I was also invited to join the faithful in prayer. I declined mainly because I couldn’t assume the prayer position with my damaged toe. As the sun set and the darkest moved in, the mosque was lit up with tranquil bluish lighting. I already thought the mosque was amazing but now I was stunned that any building could be of such beauty.

I had dinner across the road from the waterfront then walked back to the hotel for drinks on hotel roof. There was a band playing! They were okay but I was the only person there beside the staff.

After a good night sleep and breakfast, I was ready for the journey to Bira.

Indonesia - Bali - Bike tour - 2008

There are a number of downhill cycle tours through the Balinese countryside. They all seem to offer similar activities but the route taken by bike is different.

We went on the Bali eco tour. The tour agent recommended this as she said this group was better with children.

We were picked up by air con van and driven to a number of locations in Ubud picking up other riders. There were three family groups in all.

The first stop was by some steep and beautiful rice field terraces. They made excellent backdrops for photos.

The next stop was Kintamani, where we sat in a restaurant and had breakfast. The views over Gunung Batur and Danau Batur were excellent.

The next stop was to pick up the bicycles. All bikes were adjusted for each person and safety instructions were given. We were given time to cycle around to get use to the bikes.

The guides lead us to a number of venues at a leisurely pace along quiet rural roads. A van and truck followed in the rear in case there were any problems.

The main guide was very informative and very alert for any dangers or problems.

We stopped at a:

1. Temple. We were explained Hinduism and the function of the temple in Balinese society
2. Primary/elementary school. The kids were on a break when we arrived. We caused a certain amount of mayhem as we walked through the classrooms and chatted with the teachers and the students.
3. Home. We walked through the family compound and were explained the functions of all the buildings. Some members of the family compound were present.
4. Rice field. Once again the informative guide explained the importance of rice and the stages of rice growth. Ducks were wandering through the fields eating insects.

While all this was happening, we were greeted as we cycled by small children yelling ‘hello, hello’. I was in Bali in the early 80’s and this reminded so much of a time that I thought was long gone.

We finished with lunch at the company owner’s family restaurant. The food was a selection of various dishes and it was excellent. Finally, a bit tired we were driven back in air con comfort to our hotels

Best points: exercise, sights, guides, hellos

Worse points: started to get uncomfortably hot just as we were finishing, it ended

Costs

275 000 adult 200 000 child (April 08)

Here are some sites to check:

www.baliecocycling.com
www.jegegbalicycling.com.
www.balibintangtour.com
www.balisobek.com