Gubug Beach Bungalows –
425 000r per night – air con and breakfast.
1 OCTOBER
Stopped at rice fields and
ate at Warung Made
ed
Arrived Balian surf in light
cross shore on inside left
late surf on inside left
but a bit weak
2 OCTOBER
Fun shoulder height waves
on outside rights
Later surf on inside left
– better than it looked
3 OCTOBER
Early low tide walk along
beach. Silhouetted sunrise and nice light reflections on the water.
Mid early surf on outside
rights – some fun waves but most ended in deep water too quickly.
4 OCTOBER
Early surf on outside
lefts and rights and inside lefts. Some good waves with the occasional barrel
towards the end of the outside rights.
A later surf on outside
and inside lefts. A bit bumpy but fun.
5 OCTOBER
Early surf on bigger waves
on the outside rights. It was glassy with 4 surfers out. Heaps of wall on the
rights with power to have fun.
6 OCTOBER
Messy waves. No surf.
7 OCTOBER
Messy waves, no surf.
8 OCTOBER
Yeah! Fun good sized
glassy outside right and lefts and inside lefts. Heaps of waves.
Mid morning surf – a
little bumpy but still fun with only a few others out.
9 OCTOBER
An early surf on glassy
outside rights and lefts. Inside lefts were racy.
2nd morning
surf was okay but it wasn’t as good as it looked.
WHAT DID WE DO HERE?
Morning walks on the beach
as the sun rose.
Sunset walks on the beach
as the sun glowed its way to a deep red sleep.
Sunset beers in one of the
warungs.
Lazing about the hotel
pool chatting, reading and having a dip to cool off from the heat.
Eating at the different
warungs and restaurants. I’d give Tekor the stamp of the best.
Picked up plastic on the
beach while having walk.
Relaxing and soft massages
at Putu’s.
ANOTHER SURF ACCCIDENT
I was at the bottom of the
road and about to step on the beach when three young guys walked pasted that
had just got out of the surf. One of the guys had a lot of blood on the side of
his face. I checked if they needed help, which they did. The guy had a large
and long gash from his forehead and down his cheek as well as heaps of grazes
over his arms. He was having trouble focusing on me and looked very groggy and
disoriented. Maybe concussion!
I organised a staff member
from Pitaya Restaurant to show them where the clinic was located.
I never saw them again so I don’t know how his recovery progressed.
Thanks to Pitaya for
helping the guy and his friends.
PEOPLE
Jason from Gold Coast.
Shared dinner and chatted.
Kim and Deb from Tasmania.
Breakfast chat.
Noel from Lennox Head, who
had a massive head-on caraccident in
2005. We had dinner at Tekor. Nice guy.
Neil had a few surfs together
on the outside rights.
Rolf and Marilla from the
Gold Coast. Met them previously.
Nadya homestay – 500 000R
per night includes breakfast
Temple tour - 350 000r not
including temple tickets
Pura Ulang Bratan -
entrance fee 50 000r per person
Various waterfalls – 10 000r
or 20 000r entrance fee.
NYOMAN'S STORY
We left Balian and
hada pretty drive through the mountains
to Munduk. Along the way, Nyoman told us a story of the first arrival of the
Javanese Hindus to Bali. A beautiful story!
Long ago a holy man guided
a group of people to the island of Bali from Java. They settled there and
tilled the land but soon they caught a sickness and they all died. The holy man
returned to Java and after much meditation he discovered that they needed to
make an offering by burying four precious metals in the earth. He returned to
Bali with a much larger group of people and buried the offering in the earth at
where Besakih stands today. The group survived, spread across Bali, mixed with
the local Bali Aga people and tilled the land. They learnt that they must make
offerings so that did not get sick again.
Nyoman explained this was
why there are so many offerings for every facet of their life so that remain
healthy.
THE MOUNTAINS
THE ROOM
We settled into our room
at Nadya Homestay on arrival.
Jacinta was very happy
with my choice. A large very clean room with a spacious bathroom. The bed was a
large four poster with a drooping white mosquito net. There was a glass wooden
slide door to the balcony with a view across the valley and a mountain peak
beyond. We could view this as we laid on the bed. Pretty!
In Jacinta’s words to me, ‘I
done well!”. That is a big than big compliment from my darling.
THE FIRST HIKE
Our first hike was down
the road from our hotel and towards the rice fields. It was a steep walk along
the road with motorbikes, cars and trucks either zooming or podding along. A
turn off to the right and we were on a narrower and quieter road.
We passed houses with
small gardens and cloves drying in flat spaces in the sun.
We reached a dirt track on
our right and traversed along it. We passed ricefields and stands of clove
trees. The path ended leading to homes and farms. Looking up we could see our
hotel perched on the side of the thickly vegetated ridge.
We back tracked ascending
the steep incline back to our hotel.
THE BIG HIKE
Our second hike was a long
one. We followed the main road at Munduk up and up and up. The traffic was
roaring past, the temperature was increasing, shade was limited and the road
just seemed to keep getting steeper. A not so fun start.
We reached the track that
lead to the waterfalls.
The track was fun to walk
along. We passed trees, pretty and compacted homes and small warungs. The track
was cemented in parts and natural in other parts. There were many steps leading
up and down the ridges. Some of these steps were well maintained and others
very rough. No steps seemed to be of the same height. So it was like one small
step, one medium step then one ridiculously high step, etc, etc. Good for the
calf muscles.
The three waterfalls we
visited were stunning. They were high and the water dropped with power as it
plummeted down the slick cliff edge to a pool of water. The force of the water
resulted in a strong wind being generated with horizontal rain fron the
waterfall spray. Very cooling!
I had a swim in one
waterfall pool. It was cool and refreshing.
The luckiest thing about
our hike was the lack of people at each waterfall we visited. The first
waterfall had a crowd of about twenty people but they were leaving as we
arrived. Then we had it for ½ hour on our own. Lucky!
The waterfalls were nice
to sit and rest near. We soaked our feet in the water while eating our nut mix,
drinking water and admiring the drooping vegetation of the waterfall canyon.
Two of the waterfall had been modified with beautiful and subtle flower gardens
that blended in so well with the natural greenery.
There were also a number
of sturdy bamboo bridges to cross over at the falls and along the walking
track.
The hike took us about
four hours and was a wonderful experience.
THE LAST HIKE
Jacinta had a big sleep
in. When she woke we had breakfast then a short walk/hike. Well, in the end it
wasn’t short and not a walk.
We followed the road
downhill from the hotel and continued straight where previously we had turned
right. The homes very so unique being build in various precarious positions,
Some were on solid ground with a huge drop off the edge, others on concrete
stilts about three storeys off the ground, others were layered on top of other
floors that didn’t seem to match in style and others that5 were relatively
normal.
The road was festooned
along its edge in places with beautiful flower arrangements either small and
subtle or large overhanging blooms.
We took a turn to the left
following a small waterway but it came to a dead end after 20 metres.
Further along the road we
took another turn off to the right that according to Google Maps was a rice
field track that lead back to our hotel. We took the track and it traverse
around a hill through terraced corps of rice and cloves. It reached a sort of
dead end but we continued onwards much to the annoyance of two dogs who barked
viciously at us as we walked through their territory. The path a short while
later dissipated but we continued sliding and traversing down the terraced
slope till eventually there was nowhere to go but back up. We ascended the hill
and eventually found our way back to the barking dogs. This time the dogs were
aggressively unamused and added a bit vicious sentiment to the barks and snarls.
We were back on the path
and backtracked our way back to the hotel.
THE TEMPLE TOUR
We organised an afternoon
tour with the hotel to see a few sights.
The driver drove us up and
up from Munduk until we levelled out on the crater ridge on the extinct volcano.
We stopped at a lookout spot to view the two crater lakes below. There were
wooden seats and tables to have a coffee while we viewed the lakes and volcanic
backdrop.
Next stop was the temple
on the edge of Lake Bratan. The parking lot was packed with cars , buses and
motorbikes. The temple grounds were crowded with a massive amount of older
Indonesian students. Some of them were very noisy. The actual temples were
locked and there were no ceremonies or anyone dressed for ceremonies.
Okay it was not going to
be a magical mystery tour where one could seek and witness the divine. Still,
it was nice looking at the architecture, the smaller island temples and the
stone carvings on the temple walls. The lake and volcanic cliffs were such a
pretty backdrop especially as it was shrouded in mist and clouds.
Next stop was the
traditional market. A few fruit stalls were opened but overall most stalls were
closed and covered with a trap and there were only a few people wandering
around.
An early morning tour
would be better. Going by car was good as the road was so steep, narrow and
windy. There was also a lot of traffic and it was raining on parts of the high
ridge.
THE FOOD
Munduk had great local
food and where we stayed there were a lot of restaurants. We ate lunch and dinner
at different venues to spread our money love. I was impressed with the satay
sauces and a dessert called kelok pisang which was sliced boiled bananas in a mixture
of coconut and palm syrup. It was sooooo good!
The restaurants and
warungs had great views of the mountains and valleys. The hosts at every
establishment were friendly and very appreciative of having their food
complimented.
Gubug Balian Bungalows –
425 000R including good breakfast.
THE ARRIVAL
Nyoman pick us up from
Legian at 11am to drive us to Balian. The journey took about 2 hours and I
slept most of the way.
We settled into our room
then I was off for a surf.
THE SURF
Balian has a number of
surf breaks - a beach break which is okay when it is small, an outside right
and left wave, an inside left and a river mouth right. There are others around
but that is hidden knowledge. Haha!
14 September
A mid day surf with head
height okay waves as wind was not too strong.
A late afternoon surf
which wasn’t as good as earlier.
15 September
Really fun over head
height surf early morning with only a few out.
2nd morning
surf – okay but a little crowded and I was tired though the waves were good.
16 September
Head height and half waves
which were heaps of fun though a little bumpy on wave face with only a few out.
2nd morning
surf - Just me and the waves of double head height. There was too much water
movement and way too bumpy – one wave only to come in.
17 September
An early morning surf that
started off okay and got better and better. There were good outside lefts and
mid lefts mainly all to myself.
18 September
An early morning surf on
my own. It was a little infrequent but there were good outside rights and lefts
at over head height. The inside left was good too.
A mid morning surf with good
outside and inside lefts at head height.
19 September
An early morning surf on
outside rights. It was a little infrequent but good. There were only a few other
surfers out.
Mid afternoon surf with little
wind on small and some fun lefts.
20 September
It was small and very
infrequent looking waves today. I decided to have a laid day from the waves and
recharge the batteries.
21 September
An early surf mainly on
the outside rights, The waves were glassy and good but infrequent.
A mid morning surf with
the wind blowing cross-shore a bit but it was fun on the inside lefts where the
wind was lightest.
22 September
An early surf on the outside
rights and inside lefts. The rights were a bit straight but still fun and it
was getting bigger as the session progressed.
A mid afternoon surf at
high tide on inside lefts. There were some good waves but I had to be picky as
there was a lot more power in set waves and some were shutting down early.
23 September
An early surf in good size
waves though it was a bit random. There were some waves.
A late afternoon surf on
small inside left waves. A bit crowded for a so so wave. The session was cut
short when I had a long swim after my leg rope snapped.
24 September
An early surf in head
height glassy waves on the outside lefts. The crowd was already crowded but it
was my lucky day and I seemed to be in the right spot at the right time so I
had a fun time.
.A late morning surf. The
waves were a bit weak and small but it was fun.
A late afternoon surf with
Wal. It was small and a little windblown but there was some okay waves.
25 September
No surfing today. It was
small and it was great to have a break.
26 September
No surf as too small.
27 September
Early fun surf. Heaps of
waves were that were so glassy on the outside rights and lefts.
The 2nd morning surf was a
bit bumpy with heaps of waves and fun on the outside and inside lefts.
28 September
A mid morning surf for
about an hour. The wind was cross shore but the waves were still fun and the
crowd was small. Nice for last surf.
THE MASSAGES
I had a number of massages
at Ayu’s massage. All good and relaxing and soft – 100 000R. Bella’s massage was
too hard for me.
THE SHARK
One morning, I was sitting
way outside by myself waiting for the set waves. The ocean was smooth and
glassy. Suddenly and 10 metres to my left and further out to sea, a 2 ½ metre
shark breeched out of the water. The shark spun about 3 times horizontally and
parallel to the water surface. In its jaw it had a large fish. The shark landed
with a loud thumb on the water surface then disappeared. I wasn’t particularly
worried maybe because the shark already had a meal and I didn’t feel it was
interested in me. I continued surfing and didn’t see the shark again though there
was a lot of continuous water movement caused by fish.
THE ACCIDENT
Jacinta and I were having breakfast when below
us and walking along the road were three guys. One guy was holding the side of
his face and the other guy was carrying two surfboards. The guy holding his
face was Steve from New Zealand. I met them at the entrance of the hotel to
check if he was alright. He wasn’t alright. He had a large cut in his cheek and
a small one above his right eye. His surfboard had flicked back at him when he
fell off a wave and the fin cut through his cheek and the other fin cut him
above the eye. Both cuts were deep.
The guys helping him
weren’t too sure what to do. I sort of took over as Steve was going into shock
from the injuries. I sent him to his room with one of the guys to get out of
his wet gear and put warm clothes on. I went to reception and organised Wayan
to get a bike and one of the staff to take him to the clinic in the village as
he needed medical attention.
Back at his room, I
checked told him what was happening and checked that he had money and his phone
on him. I walked him up to the reception where Wayan had the motorbike and
staff ready to take him. His friend had gotten out of the water so he went to
change his clothes while I organised another motorbike.
After breakfast, I had a
surf. When I got back, Steve was at the pool. He had six stitches on the cheek
and two above the eye. He was all good but no surfing for two weeks.
THE HIKE
Jacinta and I walked into
the village to the supermarket. Jacinta needed to buy a few things and I
continued onwards for a hike.
I walked to Jalan Mejan
and followed the road to Mejan Beach. The houses along the edge of the road had
bougainvilleas spilling over the walls in a festoon of bright colours. Further
along there were rice fields bright green shallow cover of water. Just before
the beach there was a small temple perched a little back from the cliff edge.
On the black sand beach, I walked to the edge of the point and after removing my shoes I waded around the
point in waist high water with small waves to the another smaller beach.
I strolled along the beach
to a small waterfall on the further end of the beach. I sat down on the rocks
to put my shoes back on and surprised a large monitor lizard which promptly ran
up the cliff face.
I followed the lizard’s
trail and climbed the cliff. Near the top, There was a large hole in the cliff
face. I descended into the darkness of the hole and emerged inside a large
cave. The cave was about five metres wide, 4 metre high and about 20 metres
long. I walked over the rocks in the semidarkness to the ocean side of the cave
entrance.
To the east of the
entrance was a small arch under the next headland. I walked carefully over the
wet and slippery rocks to a close proximity of the arch. There was only a four
metre water filled distance from the edge of the rock to the beach on the other
side of the arch. Unfortunately, the tide was still high and the water was deep
with set waves running strongly into the arch. I didn’t want to backtrack so
into the water I jumped and swam trough the arch. It felt a bit nervy and I was
soaked but I got through.
I walked across the beach
to another cave on the next headland. This cave was full of bats. There were
two exits on the other side – one large and one small. To get to the large
exit, I would have had to scramble over the rocks and too close for comfort to
the swirling bats. I took the lower way to the smaller exit. I had to crawl
over the sand and under the bats that were flying about a metre over me. The
small entrance was clogged by sand and the aperture was only a half metre in
height. I crawled tightly through it. On the other side there were two pairs of
feet. Two young girls were standing there and nearly jumped with fright when i
said hello from halfway through the exit.
I must have looked a sight
being soaking wet and covered with sand. We had a short chat and they decided
to try going the way I came.
I walked along the beach
and up the stairs into Mina Gajah Resort and followed the path to the road and
continued back to my hotel.
A great hike with heaps of
fun and surprises.
UP IN THE MOUNTAINS
I told Wal and Desty about
a pretty place towards the mountains with rice fields and warungs. We decided
to go there in Wal’s car. I had an idea where the warungs were but we missed
the turn off and after about 3 hours of back and forth driving with gave up and
headed back to Balian.
The scenery was pretty, we
laughed along about our adventure and drove for so long that we were only ½
hour from Lovina in the north of Bali.
THE PEOPLE
Simon and Mark from South
Africa – touring Bali in car. Nice guys who joined us for dinner and spoke of their
travels in South Africa and Mozambique.
Jenelle from Maroubra - A
pleasant sun worshipper that was touring around Bali.
Steveand friendsfrom New Zealand, Auckland, Steve had the
surfboard fin in the face.
Jeff. Mark and Marty –
long time friends living in Balian. We had chats , dinner and surfs together.
Shaun – I have met him a
few times. He showed me great surf photos of east coast of Bali in the dry season.
Cameron – lives Bali, wife
Indonesian, has a place in Sumbawa, chatted over coffee.
Wayan - who works at Ayu’s
- not married yet – needs girl first.
Jason and Layla from Sanur
– Jason shapes surfboards, has done a lot of surf travelling, knows Rodney.
Layla from Jogjakarta is Indonesian with some Arabic blood. A nice couple . We
had dinner togetherat Tekor
Greg – from Margaret River
- met in Balian previously.
Lozza – met a number of
times.
Bryan and Maureen – known for
a long time. I had a lot of surfs with Bryan.
Wal and Desty – known them
for ages, Always good to catch-up, chat, eat, surf and laugh.
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