MAKASSAR , SULAWESI - VISA, FRIENDS AND FUN - 29 AUGUST TO 3 SEPTEMBER 2019

MAKASSAR

COSTS

Visa extension fee 500 000  each

Agent fee for extension 250 000r each

Donations to forts - 10 000R per person

Flight Bali to Makassar – 2 adults - Lion Air – 3 006 000R – this included 20 kg of luggage

THE ARRIVAL

We had no dramas on our Lion Air flight from Bali to Makassar in South Sulawesi.  We checked in, had coffee and croissants and boarded our flight.

The plane was delayed ½ hour as they had to move a lot of carry-on luggage into the cargo bay. It was unbelievable the number and size of the bags that they had to move. The reason was that Lion Air gave no free baggage and so people stacked their bags away from the check in counter. No one questions at the other boarding procedures along the way why people had so much carry-on luggage.

The flight was just over an hour and picking up our bags was quick as there were hardly any bags on the airport carousel. Ha ha, wonder why!

Outside the airport, we were greeted by Mina my long time friend and driven to our hotel, Swiss-bel Makassar. Mina gave us a beautiful welcoming present of a box of small cakes and a beautiful scrapbook of Jacinta and me. It was very touching. We had a present for Mina of Bali scents.

THE VISA EXTENSION

PART A

Our main job in Makassar was to extend our visa by 30 days.

We set off to extend our visa. We caught a taxi to the immigration office. We entered the small building and were informed that they do not process foreign visa extensions at this office and we needed to go to the other immigration office. Okay. We used our Grab App and with the help of one of the immigration officers and we were off to the bigger immigration office.

We arrived at the bigger office with no problems and walked up to the second floor. It was very well organised and sign posted. At the counter, the lady explained that we needed a letter from a sponsor. We didn’t have one! Could she be our sponsor? No. Can someone here be our sponsor? No. Does she know someone who could help us? Yes I will call... Twenty minutes lady we were introduced to truly. She told us to get sponsor forms and stamps. She completed the forms and had them and her ID photocopied. Then it was back to the visa extension office for photo and finger printing.. All was good. Next, Tully drove us to a Post office or ATM through her account to pay for the visa. 1 000 000R for two. We decided on the ATM. Next we drove to Trully’s house where we had a drink and cake while she photographed the Payment invoices then we gave her the money. At her house we met her husband. A nice gut but not well. Next, Trully drove us to our hotel and would get our passports with the extension on Monday and deliver to our hotel. Of course, there was a charge for her services but it was worth it, especially, for the cake at her house.

It was a bit more complex than I thought it would be but now we know what to do for the next extension.

PART B

By Monday, there were no messages about our passports. There were no messages on my phone and the Immigration Office and the agent were not answering their phones. We were a bit (a lot really) concerned so we organised a car to take us to the Immigration Office. The traffic was horrific and we made it to our destination with five minutes to spare.

At the visa counter, they informed us that Trully had picked up the passports this morning. They rang Trully a couple of times and got her address for us. We then drove to her house to get our passports. We were not impressed as she said she texted me but there was no text on my phone. Basically, she didn’t seem too perturb that we had to go find her to get our passports. More lessons learnt!

Now we had our visa extension! The plan was to do our next extension in a week’s time or so when the extension we just got had started to be implemented. Of course there’s more to this story that will come later.

FORT ROTTERDAM

Jacinta and I had a wander around the fort one morning. It was very close to our hotel. There was a donation on entry and a charge to visit the museums that were inside the fort.

The fort was surrounded by a large and thick  stone/brick wall the top of the wall was wide enough to drive a car.

The inside of the fort was open grassed areas and many wooden buildings.

It was interesting walking on thee wall, around the buildings and through the museums.

LOSARI BEACH

We spent a lot of time wandering along the promenade of Losari Beach.

Losari Beach is not a beach of either sand or rocks. The edge of the promenade either slopes downward or drops vertical into the water. That is the beach. Maybe in the past there was a beach there but it’s not there now. J

Being a western tourist (bule) is a reasonably unusual sight in Makasssar. The local people will randomly ask you for a photo of you with them or sneak a photo of themselves with you in the background. We usually, said yes to photos as we usually take photos of Indonesians in their daily life.

On Sunday, I met up with Mina, Antomina and another friend in the morning in the hotel lobby. I showed them around the hotel and then we had a walk along the promenade. Today was traffic free day so the road was blocked from traffic and there were stalls set up for about a kilometre. It was fun walking along – buying some food, drinks and a t-shirt and dancing to the Zumba exercise music. The locals were dancing happily away to the music. And yes, I joined in as well.  The girls were having a bit of a hard time walking with me. I don’t know why people were looking at them with ‘questioning and knowing’ looks, as I was the  only bule walking around and three pretty girls. I started smiling at people and saying hello and walking a short distance from the girls every now and then. The latter seemed to ease the problem.

There is a beautiful mosque that stood on stilts over the water. It is okay to enter but of course you must remove your shoes and be appropriately dressed.

The promenade was especially nice early in the morning and at sunset. We sat a number of times and watched the sunset over the ocean. It was so beautiful and serene.

THE HOTEL

Makassar is hot, especially through the middle part of the day. The traffic fumes do not help either. Having a good hotel is pretty important especially as we were probably going to be there for a few days to organise our visa extension.

We chose the SwissBel. Relatively, it was expensive but the benefits were great. A nice pool to rest around or swim laps, a good breakfast, very clean and cool rooms and very helpful staff.

We had a long chat with Nungky in reception about constructive critical thinking in schools in Indonesia. She thought that she was taught this but that it was not the norm at schools as in many village areas it rarely gets any attention. Maybe no need  as most people are born, live and die in the same village.

FOOD

Eating out in Makassar was a bit tricky. The warungs or the restaurants, which was the best.

We ate a number of restaurants and the food was okay but not exciting. The best place we thought was the Noodle House. The owner was friendly and helpful. We chatted with him and he told us of his holiday in Australia. We had whole fish, vegetables and a number of side dishes. We picked our fish from the display in the front of the shop. He gave us dessert for free.

The warungs were great for juices and snack foods. I especially loved the avocado juice and the hot corn on the cob. All cooked and prepared in front of you.

A DAY OUT WITH MINA AND REVAN

One morning, I rang Mina for some suggestions on something to do. A lot of text was exchanged and by about 10:30am Mina and Revan arrived to take us on a tour.

We visited a large spiral monument. The monument was closed but off ran Mina and after a short while she returned with an attendant and a key. The man opened the entrance to the monument and turned on the internal lighting. There were two floors of display. The ground floor showed the recent history of conflict between the Dutch and the Indonesians which lead to independence. The lower floor depicted scenes from earlier local conflicts with the Dutch in South Sulawesi. It was all very interesting.

There was an elevated that didn’t work that could but couldn.t take you to the top of the tower.

Next, we drove to Benteng (fort) Sumbo Opu. There was an interesting wooden two storey restored building which had various displays of the Gowa time period. We also visited a grave which could bring luck to men who seek it. There is also another grave where women go for luck as well.

We drove back into town and stopped at a restaurant for lunch and drinks and chatting.

We were going to Bira tomorrow and Revan organised a friend of his to drive us there.

LAST THOUGHTS

We were happy despite the running around that we had extended our visas.

Makassar has the prettiest sunsets. We enjoyed a few beers watching them from the rooftop bar at the Swiss-bel and on the downstairs terrace.

On the last breakfast, I pigged out on baguettes, croissants, fruit and cappuccinos. Yum yum!

We were so lucky to have friends in Makassar like Mina and Revan to help us and to have fun with.

CANDIDASA, BALI - RELAXING STAY - 26 TO 29 AUGUST 2019

CANDIDASA

COSTS

Car from Legian to Candidasa - 450 000R

Anom Beach Hotel – superior apartment room with garden view  - 440 220R

Motorbike hire -  80 000R per day

THE STAY

We arrived at Anom Beach Hotel in Candidasa about two hours after leaving Legian. We settle into our rooms, hired a motorbike for our three night stay.

We ate at some pretty restaurants overlooking the ocean or beautiful gardens – Amarta, Padang Kecag and The Dining Room.

We spent a lot of time on the small beach in front of the hotel at low tide.  It was an amazing place to swim! I waded out at one end of the beach then the current spirits one along at a very fast pace – like having winged feet – to the other end of the beach.

The snorkeling though limited to small fish and random clumps of coral was clear and fun.

Our room included breakfast. We were served by Komang whom we met on our last visit to Candidasa. Komang was working previously at the reception but now at the restaurant.

We had a motorbike around the area. We loaded our daypack and wandered around. We took a left turn off the main road towards Tentangan (an aga - original people - village). The journey was so pleasant – little traffic, dogs on the road resting, temples, traditional houses, rice terraces and various bush and tree crops.

We took a small turn off and drove through a village that had very large chicken coops and lots of eggs stacked over two metres high in cardboard containers. It wasn’t the best conditions for the chickens as they had little room to move. At least, the coops were terraced so that the hens weren’t shitting on the ones below them.

Another turn off took us to the honey bee village. We toured one of the farms. It was interesting – the small bees don’t sting and produce about 2/3 kg of honey from their hive but the larger bees do sting and produce 10 kg of honey. Other products grown there were coffee and herbs which were made into various teas and oil scents.

On another day, Jacinta went to the hotel pool and I drove the bike to the other end of town.
I walked around the fishing boats and had a few chats,

drove/walked to the temple on the point, which had a great view over Candidasa,

drove/walk around the large lotus pond

and then I had an okay massage.

We met a lovely German couple and daughter during our stay. They were staying in the room opposite us.

The virus was still very strong throughout our stay for Jacinta but started to ease off for me, unfortunately, I still had the diarrhea.

The owner of Anom Beach Hotel, Komang, informed us to book with him direct for a cheaper price on our next visit.

LEGIAN, BALI - SICK BUT DOING OUR BEST - 21 TO 26 AUGUST 2019

LEGIAN - 21 TO 26 AUGUST

COSTS

car from domestic airport to hotel in Legian - 200 000R

Grand Kumala Hotel standard room - 415 000R with good breakfast.


THE STORY

We arrived in Bali from Sumba flying with Wings Air - a good flight but leg room was poor. We picked up our bags and met Nyoman at the domestic airport exit. We drove to the Grand Kumala Hotel taking a scenic route through narrow streets and pass ‘rivers’ due to traffic flow changes.

We were very hungry so we popped the bags in the room and headed out to eat – pizza and Greek salad. We were feeling better after eating so we walked towards the main road and I had a haircut and Jacinta had a hair treatment.

I was still sick with the virus during our stay with the addition of diarrhea and Jacinta had picked up the virus as well.  

At night, we had a few dinners with live music playing and during the day we sat around the hotel pool and wandered down to the beach for sunset.

One night, we walked towards Padma and turned off just after the Jayakarta. We stopped to have dinner at a restaurant. It was very quiet then bam! Out came four guys dressed as clowns who started dancing to loud music. It was sort of entertaining but it had a limit. Eventually, they finished and we ate our meal and departed before their next bracket.

On another night, we ate a good meal and listened to a pleasant sounding duet. We met a pleasant guy there named Mark. He was from Dubbo and was a carpenter who worked in an office. Strange combo that he says worked well.

One of the days, we caught a taxi to Nusa Dua. Jacinta had a filling come out and so to the BIMC dental clinic we went. The place was ultra modern, clean, well organised and friendly. Jacinta had her gigi (tooth) fixed and back we drove to Legian.

WAINGAPU - SUMBA - THE FINAL STAY - 21 AUGUST 2019

WAINGAPU


COSTS

Tanto Hotel - 550 000R with an Indonesian breakfast

car to airport 100 000R

Wings Air flight - flight coast plus 15 kg of baggage each.


THE STORY

We arrived at Waingapu and stayed at the Tanto Hotel. We settled into our room but soon changed to another room as the cupboard was doused moth balls, which gives me a terrible headache.

After recovering from the toxic abuse of the other room, we set off into town for some panadol. I was still sick with the sinus infection and Jacinta seemed to coming down with it as well. It was a long motor exhaust fume walk to the apotek (chemist).

After that, we backtracked to Sacca’s Restaurant where I had a great baked fish and Jacinta had baked chicken for dinner.

The next day we woke. packed, had breakfast and organised a car to the airport. There was a free shuttle bus but it was leaving a little late for us.

At the airport, we had no problems with the Wings flight to Denpasar, Bali. We had paid for 15 kgs each and the bags were slightly over but they didn’t charge us for it. The surfboards were 200 000R each but this time I didn’t have to pay for the weight of the boards as well.

TARIMBANG - SUMBA - SURF, VIRUS, BEACH - 16 TO 20 AUGUST 2019

TARIMBANG

COSTS

Marthen’s car from Waingapu to Tarimbang was 800 000R. Same price back.

The large 'luxury' room was 800 000R with three meals.

THE STAY

We stayed at Tarimbang while we waited for our flight back to Bali.

Marthen picked us up at 10 am and then we got water, fruit and cereal and drove to Tarimbang. The drive was very windy and I was feeling like crap. Eventually, we arrived at Tarimbang settled into the ‘luxury’ room, had lunch and then I had a sleep.

I woke feeling heaps better so Jacinta and I had a late afternoon walk along the beach. It was so quiet, serene and pretty.

The next morning, I walked down to the beach and paddled out for a surf. The waves were good fun with sets at head height. A boat was there with surfers but there was no hassle as they were a nice bunch of guys from Manly.

Later Jacinta and I had a walk down to the beach. We made a sun shelter with my sarong using four sticks of bamboo and using our thongs to anchor them on the top of the poles. It was very effective.  I sat in the shade while Jacinta baked.

The rest of the afternoon was relaxing but I was gradually feeling more and more sick from the virus – runny nose, headache, blocked sinuses and generally feeling like crap. This was the story for me for the rest of the time in Tarimbang. I rested a lot and spent morning/afternoon time on the beach with Jacinta. No more surfing the rest of the stay here for me.

We had a few walks around the village. Life runs at a slow pace here.

NEW ARRIVALS

Later in the afternoon two more surfers arrived. Roger from Denmark in Western Australia and Peter from Ayre Peninsula in South Australia. They were both nice guys with some good stories.

Peter had done a lot of boat travel in Indonesia over the years on his own back and later on snorkeling/surfing boat charters. He especially recommended Raja Ampat and Banda Islands for snorkeling.

Roger was an electrician who knew Lorenzo who I have met in Balian a number of times.

THE LOCALS

Petros

When Petros was eight years old, he fell from a coconut tree. His injuries resulted in  broken hip and leg. Of course this changed the direction of his life. His ongoing injury was a severe limp that made him unable to work. He was poor with little chance of making money and so he had no wealth to pay a bride price. Petros is now 65 with teeth showing the deformations of betel juice usage. He survived by learning English and providing services for tourists – coconuts, hiking in the area and general information. A lot of the information he provides is for free. A nice guy who is more than ready to share a good laugh.

Marthen

Marthen smiles and when he laughs it is more of a giggle. He is ready for a chat but put a bit of salt on the stories. Well, the stories are good but his role in them leaves out his vested interests which plays a strong role in the things he becomes involved in. He tells his stories like he was hard done by or was the village hero.

Other people have told me that he blocks any neighbours from showing touristic enterprise unless he gets a cut or it may take money from his business/es.

My thoughts – I like him, I’m open with my dealings with him but I also remain wary and double check any agreements I make with him such as cost of room, transport, etc.

Cindy

Cindy is Marthen’s wife. She will lie straight face to you. You ask her in Waingapu if the ‘luxury’ room is available and she says ‘yes’ but on arrival someone is already staying there.  Could it be a language problem, no, she is quite aware that she is lying. I really don’t know why she does that as people are going to come no matter what room is available.

She likes to collect the room rent in advance for the length of your stay. As rooms are of different prices it is best to give her the money for one or two days only.

My thoughts – I like Cindy. She will get things done if you ask and is much better to deal with by being up front.

Marthen and Cindy

Together they play the good cop, bad cop routine and they do it well! Beware brother! Beware! Ha ha.

WAINGAPU - SUMBA - BETWEEN STAYS - 16 AUGUST 2019

WAINGAPU

15 AUGUST

We arrived safely at Tanto Hotel, checked in and settled into our room.

We walked to the left of the hotel to the Sacca Reto and had lunch. Nice!

Back at the hotel we tried to sort out plane tickets. To cut a long frustrating 4 hours story shorter, we were successful. Next was easy – grandkumala in Bali and airport pick up by Nyoman.

We had a walk to the supermarket and stocked up on supplies for Tarimbang and had a coffee in a cafe just outside the market.

16 AUGUST

I had the worse sleep. I wasn’t feeling well with a very sore throat and a bit of a temperature the night before. The traffic was noisy, the room next door was noisy to midnight and the mosque called to prayer at about 4:30 am and then I didn’t get back to sleep so I was a bit of a mess.