After leaving
Mallacoota, we stopped at Cann River for the best egg and bacon burger and
mediocre coffee.
We checked briefly the
surf at Red Bluff – it had potential. Next was the camp at Tyers Lake – Lake
Beachfront Holiday Park.
A bit of a bush track
to the beach – loved it and the beach looked great and buffed with sandstone
cliffs.
We settled in and I had
a mountain bike ride along the local cliff top tracks. A great ride through
thick bush and dense scrub that formed a tunnel. There were occasional views of
the coastal scenery below and onwards to the north. At the most northern end I
rode along a rainforest track and the wide beach formed by the exit of the
river to the sea. Very pretty and a great ride.
Back at camp, and we
swam in the pool and sat in the sun. Nice.
The late afternoon was
relaxation and having a few wines and beers and a combo of the two.
The camp area is very
pretty. Lots of shady trees, filtering light, protected from the wind and birds
high above.
8 FEBRUARY
TYERS LAKE
We drove down to the
lake and wandered around the beach and lake foreshore. It was very pretty and
serene.
We continued to Lakes
Entrance. It was sort of pretty but a bit too commercialized. Not much soul.
On the way back, we
stopped at Lake Bunga. I had a kayak in the lake. It was so pristine and
tranquil – birds, dragonflies, swaying reeds and trees, old bridge and the
remains of small forests of trees that were once above water.
While I was gone,
Jacinta had a walk along the beach and lake. A large black snake swam past her
where I had launched my kayak.
We woke and had a slow
pack as we had a small problem with the van GPS.
Finally, we got going
and stopped at Red Bluff to check the surf. It was pumping at overhead height.
One mistake was putting on a spring suit and rash shirt … just wasn’t warm
enough. It was bearable but I was surfing cold. Anyway, I had a number of fun
waves before the cold got to me and in I went.
We woke, loaded the
last of the gear in the van and off we went. The drive was easy with only light
traffic.
Our goal was Gerroa.
We drove to the headland and checked out the view and decided to stay the
night.
We camped by a small
creek.
I launched the kayak
in the afternoon and paddled up the creek which ended quickly due to blockage
by a fallen tree. I back tracked and paddled to the Crooked River. I paddled up
river it was shallow in spots and wide. It got a bot boring so I paddled down
creek and towards the ocean. The water was very shallow in sections but it was
fun trying to find the deeper water while avoiding the oyster-encrusted rocks.
Eventually, the water became too shallow and I could go no further. There were
a number of birds on the journey – ducks, oyster catchers and herons. A good
kayak which would be better at a higher tide.
31 JANUARY 2022
GERROA
An early morning bike
ride around Gerroa waterfront. A brilliant sky, awesome reflections, high tide
and so quiet.
A very busy week with Jacinta's brother in hospital, bushfires and jobs at home to be done. I did get out for some fun ...
15 November
Ran into Ken at North Avoca while checking the surf. We
hopped into my van and headed over to Umina Beach and had a small but fun surf
then coffee at Ettalong waterfront. It is a scenic and relaxing place for a
rest with a view.
Back to North Avoca where the surf was bigger and had a few
nice waves.
18 November
A MTB along the beach at Umina then along the promenade.
First bike ride in months.
19 November
Surf at North Avoca with Ken. Some okay waves and a bit of a
crowd.
Car from hotel in Makassar
to airport - 250 000R including all the tolls.
Flight Makassar to Bali
5:40 am with Citilink– approx. 2 300 000R for two adults – 20 kg luggage
included.
Car from Bali domestic
airport to Legian – 200 000R
Grand Kumala Hotel - standard
room - 384 000R
Relaxation massage Sicilia
Spa 112 000r for 1 hour
THE JOURNEY
We started the day with an
early morning flight from Makassar to Bali.
We woke at 3:30am and Arus
picked us up at 4:00am. The journey to the airport took about ½ hour as there
was no traffic.
At the airport we checked
into the Citilink counter. They were quick, efficient and professional. The
fastest and most hassle free check in I’ve done at an Indonesian domestic
airport. We had plenty of time for coffee and croissants.
Nyoman picked us up at
Bali domestic airport and drove us to the Grand Kumala Hotel in Legian.
We checked in to the hotel,
got our gear out of storage and had a 2nd breakfast.
This was an eating day as
we were keen to eat more western food and we were also over-tired. Pizza, Greek
salad, garlic bread, etc. Haha
We had chores to do as
well – cash money and buy supplies for Balian from the supermarket.
We relaxed with beers on
the beach for sunset and earlier, I had a relaxing massage at Sicilia Spa.
The following day, Nyoman
pick us up to drive us to Balian.
car from domestic airport to hotel in Legian - 200 000R
Grand Kumala Hotel standard room - 415 000R with good breakfast.
THE STORY
We arrived in Bali from
Sumba flying with Wings Air - a good flight but leg room was poor. We picked up our bags and met Nyoman at the domestic
airport exit. We drove to the Grand Kumala Hotel taking a scenic route through narrow
streets and pass ‘rivers’ due to traffic flow changes.
We were very hungry so we
popped the bags in the room and headed out to eat – pizza and Greek salad. We
were feeling better after eating so we walked towards the main road and I had a haircut and Jacinta
had a hair treatment.
I was still sick with the
virus during our stay with the addition of diarrhea and Jacinta had picked up the
virus as well.
At night, we had a few
dinners with live music playing and during the day we sat around the hotel pool
and wandered down to the beach for sunset.
One night, we walked
towards Padma and turned off just after the Jayakarta. We stopped to have dinner
at a restaurant. It was very quiet then bam! Out came four guys dressed as
clowns who started dancing to loud music. It was sort of entertaining but it
had a limit. Eventually, they finished and we ate our meal and departed before
their next bracket.
On another night, we ate a good meal and listened to a pleasant sounding duet. We met a pleasant guy there named Mark. He was from Dubbo and was a carpenter who worked in an office. Strange combo that he says worked well.
One of the days, we
caught a taxi to Nusa Dua. Jacinta had a filling come out and so to the BIMC dental
clinic we went. The place was ultra modern, clean, well organised and friendly.
Jacinta had her gigi (tooth) fixed and back we drove to Legian.
Marthen’s car from Waingapu
to Tarimbang was 800 000R. Same price back.
The large 'luxury' room was 800
000R with three meals.
THE STAY
We stayed at Tarimbang
while we waited for our flight back to Bali.
Marthen picked us up at 10
am and then we got water, fruit and cereal and drove to Tarimbang. The drive
was very windy and I was feeling like crap. Eventually, we arrived at Tarimbang
settled into the ‘luxury’ room, had lunch and then I had a sleep.
I woke feeling heaps
better so Jacinta and I had a late afternoon walk along the beach. It was so
quiet, serene and pretty.
The next morning, I walked
down to the beach and paddled out for a surf. The waves were good fun with sets
at head height. A boat was there with surfers but there was no hassle as they
were a nice bunch of guys from Manly.
Later Jacinta and I had a
walk down to the beach. We made a sun shelter with my sarong using four sticks
of bamboo and using our thongs to anchor them on the top of the poles. It was
very effective. I sat in the shade while
Jacinta baked.
The rest of the afternoon
was relaxing but I was gradually feeling more and more sick from the virus –
runny nose, headache, blocked sinuses and generally feeling like crap. This was
the story for me for the rest of the time in Tarimbang. I rested a lot and
spent morning/afternoon time on the beach with Jacinta. No more surfing the
rest of the stay here for me.
We had a few walks around the village. Life runs at a slow pace here.
NEW ARRIVALS
Later in the afternoon two
more surfers arrived. Roger from Denmark in Western Australia and Peter from
Ayre Peninsula in South Australia. They were both nice guys with some good
stories.
Peter had done a lot of
boat travel in Indonesia over the years on his own back and later on
snorkeling/surfing boat charters. He especially recommended Raja Ampat and
Banda Islands for snorkeling.
Roger was an electrician
who knew Lorenzo who I have met in Balian a number of times.
THE LOCALS
Petros
When Petros was eight
years old, he fell from a coconut tree. His injuries resulted inbroken hip and leg. Of course this changed
the direction of his life. His ongoing injury was a severe limp that made him
unable to work. He was poor with little chance of making money and so he had no
wealth to pay a bride price. Petros is now 65 with teeth showing the
deformations of betel juice usage. He survived by learning English and
providing services for tourists – coconuts, hiking in the area and general
information. A lot of the information he provides is for free. A nice guy who
is more than ready to share a good laugh.
Marthen
Marthen smiles and when he
laughs it is more of a giggle. He is ready for a chat but put a bit of salt on
the stories. Well, the stories are good but his role in them leaves out his
vested interests which plays a strong role in the things he becomes involved
in. He tells his stories like he was hard done by or was the village hero.
Other people have told me
that he blocks any neighbours from showing touristic enterprise unless he gets
a cut or it may take money from his business/es.
My thoughts – I like him,
I’m open with my dealings with him but I also remain wary and double check any
agreements I make with him such as cost of room, transport, etc.
Cindy
Cindy is Marthen’s wife.
She will lie straight face to you. You ask her in Waingapu if the ‘luxury’ room
is available and she says ‘yes’ but on arrival someone is already staying
there. Could it be a language problem,
no, she is quite aware that she is lying. I really don’t know why she does that
as people are going to come no matter what room is available.
She likes to collect the
room rent in advance for the length of your stay. As rooms are of different
prices it is best to give her the money for one or two days only.
My thoughts – I like
Cindy. She will get things done if you ask and is much better to deal with by
being up front.
Marthen and Cindy
Together they play the
good cop, bad cop routine and they do it well! Beware brother! Beware! Ha ha.
We arrived at Kelala two hours
after leaving Waingapu. It was interesting drive – a good road, traditional
houses, a couple of towns and a multitude of school kids. The vegetation was
abundant in a sparse sort of way and in a number of places there were rice
fields flowing and glowing green.
At Kelala, we were greeted
by Sri, Johanna’s daughter and the only other guest, Chris from Australia.
We
eventually settled into our room after lunch and then Chris and I went for a
surf. The waves were right handers next the new and already abandoned pier. The
waves were good fun but the current tended to draw you into the pier.. This was
a bit of a worry but was easily avoided with constant paddling.
At dinner which was late
Jacinta and I had a few beers while we chatted we Chris and Sri. Chris had done
a lot of travelling spending years in various places around the world. Sri is
half Australian and half Sumbanese. She has been to university and achieved an
Engineering degree. Presently, she was helping out her mother run the resort.
Yohanna’s husband David died a few years ago.
There is a price to pay
for the bride in Sumba similar to a dowry. This involves items such as
chickens, cows, water buffaloes, etc. Sri's price was one hundred water buffalo.
That’s a lot of money in Sumba terms. The price was high as Johanna’s father
was a king and therefore she was a princess and so Sri was also of royal blood
with her grandfather being the king in their area.
10 AUGUST
I woke early and had a
walk along the beach and out along the pier. The sunrise was pretty and the
waves were looking promising.
We had breakfast and Chris
left for Waingapu and then Bali.
I went for a surf while
Jacinta baked on the beach. The waves weren’t as good – some good ones but the
sets were bigger and closing out so all in all I did a lot of paddling.
Near sunset Jacinta and I
had a long walk along the beach to the east. The beach was empty except for a
lone local and a couple of dogs and a pig. The sun setting over the distant
mountain range was pretty.
At dinner we met Rodney,
who is Yoyanna’s sister's husband. They live further down the beach. An
interesting fellow who now has Indonesian citizenship. He runs a number of
businesses especially in bamboo furniture.
11 AUGUST
An early morning walk to
the pier to check out the waves. The tide was high and the few waves were
breaking close to the pier. The other side of the pier had soft looking waves.
We had breakfast and then
I had a surf on the left. Some waves that were about a metre were good on the takeoff
over the reef but sort of edged along after that. Nice wall but too small to do
such more than glide across. Still, I was the only one surfing and I had fun.
Yohanna showed us her ikat
weavings and other art works which belong to her family. We talked about modern
and old ikat. The difference was the use of natural dyes verses modern cotton.
Yohanna went to a wedding
party and Sri cooked dinner which was spaghetti and meat sauce and spicy fried
chicken. It was very tasty. Jacinta and I had a few beers and Sri showed us
photos of her family and herself. A nice evening.
12 AUGUST
A warm night’s sleep.
I walked down to the pier
and had a urgent need to go to the toilet. Once satisfied and I walked over the
pier to the beach on the other side. Once there I had an even greater urge to go to
the toilet. After an explosive performance I felt deeply satisfied and wandered
over to the discarded pier-building barge. The barge was left on the sand to
rust when the pier was completed.
A man with a number of
large plastic bottles walked down the beach and onto the barge. Once on top he
lowered each plastic bottle by rope inside the hull. On closer inspection, I
realized he was gathering water that had deposited inside the hull after the
brief rain from the night before. Needless to say, I didn’t think that the
water would be safe to drink as the hull was heavily rusted.
Walking back along the
beach to Kelala, the wind had increased and large grass seeds were rolling
along the beach at breakneck speeds.
The rest of the day was
taking it easy.
Near sunset we sat on the
beach and watched the sun set over the mountains. The sea was calm. The water
reflected the light of the sinking sun in a blinding cascade of twinkling
luminosity. All was good in the world! J
Dinner was fish, rice and
vegetatbles. The fish was so tasty.
We had a few beers and
chatted with Yohanna. Manis the dog was missing and a seach mission was quickly
carried out by all thee staff. Manis had just give birth to a litter of puppies
about a week ago and tonight they were whimpering as they were hungry. Manis
was not found but in the morning she was back with her puppies. It was
suspected that Manis had gone off looking for boy dogs. When questioned at
breakfast about where she had been, she looked away guiltily.
13 AUGUST
A pleasant sleep.
After breakfast we hired a
motorbike for Yohanna for the day. Jacinta wasn’t feeling well so we drove to
the west to see the far end of the beach and a few villages.
The road (track) out of
Kelala was covered in obstacles – deep sand ruts, sharp bumpy rocks and deeply
gouged potholes – heaps of fun. We navigated the maze of tracks that lead here,
there and nowhere and reached the main sealed road Jalan Waingapu.
Along the road we passed
people, houses both plain and traditional, schoolkids (technically people J), large concrete and
decorative graves, dogs lying over the road with no fear of death, Brahmin cows
and massive pigs with their tiny piglets. The latter were the most dangerous as
they just walked across the road with little concern for the possibility of
traffic.
We stopped at the far end
of the beach in an area that was neatly arranged with covered decking for
seating in the shade and garbage bins. In the shallow water,the women were gathering seaweed which they
threw into very large wicker baskets that floated on the water. These were
towed to shore when they finished and spread over the ‘grassed’ area to dry in
the sun. I chatted with a two guys who told me that it was used for food.
We continued until the
road ended and became a steep, washed out and deeply rutted road. We drove part
of the way but we soon turned back.
We took a few turn offs along sealed and dirt roads. They lead through villages and pass heaps of
schools which were filled with heaps of kids. We briefly chatted with a few
people along the way. ‘Hi, where are you going, where are you from’ were the
main topics of our limited discussions.
Back at Kelala we had a
mandi shower to cool down and wash the dust off.
The rest of the day was
resting.
At dinner with had our
nightly chats with Sri and Yohanna. I told them that we met a man today who had
one arm and was riding a motorcycle. They told us that the man’s arm was bitten
off by a crocodile while snorkeling in the night for fish at the river mouth
near the far end of the beach. The stories continued with numerous crocodile
attacks at the large river at nearby Baing but all these other people were 'only' bitten.
A few years ago, a tourist while
snorkelling at Kelala had an encounter with a crocodile who took the fish that
he had speared with his spear gun.
The stories switched to
sharks. Sri said that many years ago a tourist was attacked by a shark at
Tarimbang while surfing and was air lifted to Bali for treatment.
After that it was pleasant
dreams ... maybe.
14 AUGUST
We took the motorbike
towards the east and the north today.
It wasn’t much fun on the
main road as there was large sections where they were improving the road so it
wasn’t very scenic.
We took a turn off along a
dirt road to a beach. The beach was a break in the reef and it also had a wide
sandy estuary that looked very much like crocodile territory. I walked around
the area but saw no crocodile tracks.
Another long dirt road
turn off took us nowhere and after about twenty minutes we turned around. On
the way back we took a smaller turnoff and ended up in a village compound. It
looked like no one was home.
Having enough of road
works we turned back towards Kelala. On the way, a man stopped us and pointed
out that the bike stand was still down. We stopped at a small shop and he
filled the bike with benezine and Jacinta and I had a cold drink. We chatted
with a few of the locals there. Friendly place.
We took one more turn off
that lead to a highly eroded dirt road. We turned back at that point as we had
had enough dust for one day. Along the way, we saw a man in traditional Sumba
garb.
Back at Kelala we rested
and towards sunset there was a slight increased in the wave size so I had a
surf beside the pier.
At dinner we chatted and
made arrangements for transport tomorrow to Waingapu.
15 AUGUST
We woke and I checked the
small again waves. The morning looked so pretty!
We said our goodbyes to
Yohanna who had to leave for work at 7am. We rubbed noses the Sabah-style.
After breakfast we packed,
paid our bill and were off to Waingapu. Sri joined us as she was going to the
market.
Yohanna was from Sabah and
they greet and say goodbye by rubbing noses quickly.
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