Stay –
Villa Casablanca – 2 524 500r 5 nights – good aircon room
Pura Goa
Lawah – 30 000r entry
Kemenah Butterfly
Park – 100 000R entry
Tegenugan
Waterfall – 20 000r entry
21
OCTOBER
The
flight was delayed 1 hour in Tambolaka, Sumba. There was no fuss at check-in, the
flight was uneventful and Bali domestic airport was quick.
Gousti met
me and drove me to Villa Casablanca, Keramas.
I settled
into my room and had a very late lunch. I wandered down to the beach. There
were a number of places to eat along the foreshore and there were a few surfers
in short and dumpy waves.
On the
way back to the hotel, I hired a motorbike for the next few days.
22
OCTOBER
I woke
early and loaded the bike for hopefully some relaxing waves. My back and ribs
were still sore but getting better so I wanted easy waves. I wandered but
didn’t find any surf for my needs and eventually I drove back to Keramas.
I
wandered down to the beach, watched the surf then headed back. I did some much
needed washing and sat around the hotel pool and ate lunch.
Late
afternoon was down the beach to watch the surf, eat dinner and have a couple of
beers.
23
OCTOBER
I woke
and my back felt better so I drove the motorbike to Pantai Lembeng.
The surf
was a little wild with the high tide but it looked okay so in I went. The waves
were fun though I stuck to the edge to test out the ribs and back. Glad I did
as after ½ hour both were hurting. I stayed in another twenty minutes before it
became too much. I was pretty sore on the ribs and stiff as a board on the
back. Still, it was fun having a surf.
The rest
of the day was moaning about my back to myself and finding a position where the
discomfort eased.
After
lunch and a kip, I woke to the back pain being gone. Don’t worry, it came back
again after dinner. I texted Jason and the surfboard would be ready by the end
of the week.
24
OCTOBER
Today as
a wandering day on the east coast of Bali.
The first
stop was Pura Goa Lawah.
This is
one of the holy temples of Bali. When I arrived, there were a number of
ceremonies being conducted on the beach opposite the temple. The temple was
quiet so I chose to wander through the complex. It was 30 000r entry fee which included a sash
and sarong. There were a series of smaller temples within the main complex.
Only worshippers could enter the smaller temples but you could see inside them.
The major part of the complex is the cave whch has a resident population of
bats. The bats were teeming over the ceiling of the cave.
I also wandered
along a path that took me to another temple above the cave. There as a pretty
view.
At the
exit, I had a chat with some of the local custodians of the temple and was
interviewed and filmed regarding my opinion of the temple.
Across
the road the ceremonies had finished but the offerings and the colourful Balinese
in their ceremonial clothing were abundant.
My next
stop was Padangbai.
The
traffic was slow and heavy with heaps of mini buses bringing to and from the
fast boats that leave for the Gilli Islands in Lombok. I parked and had a
second breakfast in a cafe on the harbour promenade. A good location to people/boat
watch. The small boat traffic taking snorkelers and divers to various spots
were also abundant.
My next
stop was just over the hill to the north at Blue Lagoon.
I parked
and had a great vie onto the bay below. The water was calm and clear. So
pretty!
I walked down
the steps and set myself up on one of the sun chairs above the beach and next
to a small warung. I had a great and long snorkel around the small bay and
further on to a small beach around the point. There were lots of fish, pretty
coral and very clear water.
I had a
light lunch at the warung and a foot massage from Made.
A second
snorkel wasn’t as good due to water movement stirring up the sand reducing the
visibility.
A fun
day!
25
OCTOBER
I decided
on another wandering day.
My first
stop was the Kemenah Butterfly Park.
The park
was small though fun. There were heaps of butterflies and I wandered slowly
enjoying the fluttering and graceful pageant.
The next
stop was the Tegenugan Waterfall.
The entry
was 20 000r and it was very touristy. Still, the waterfall was big and
spectacular. All the people were an add attraction. I had a swim/wade into the
water and wandered around the paths and small bamboo bridges.
The
journey home was fun as Google Maps lead me along very narrow roads/paths,
small villages and ricefields.
26
OCTOBER
I started
the morning with a walk along beach. The waves were big and some surfers were
getting barrels and big turns. It was fun to watch.
Back at
the hotel and it was time for breakfast, packing and check out. I caught a
hotel car to Sanur.
Flight –
Bali Tambolaka Sumba return – 3 063 929r including 15kg for baggage. Add 200 000 per surfboard each leg.
Car –
Ketewe to Wanukaka 400 000r
Motorbike
- with board racks 100 000r per day
THE
ARRIVAL
The
flight from Bali was on a Wings propeller plane. No problems.
At
Tambolaka airport in Sumba, I was greeted by Petho, the owner of my homestay.
The ride was great – passing through villages, towns, kids leaving school and
food markets.
We
stopped for fruit supplies and later at a nice restaurant in Waikabubak.
The roads
were good until the last stage before Ketewe. Finally, we pulled into the
homestay and I settled into my room.
The view
was awesome. You could see the full expanse of the bay and the waves on the
reefs of Ketewe. Nice!
12
OCTOBER
The surf was
small and sectioning. Didn’t bother for a surf.
I had a
late afternoon hike down to and along the beach. From there, I walked through
the water around the point and traversed another beach. I followed another
track that lead to a small beach.I
chatted to a few kids then climbed the headland. I could see Morosi from this
location.
I
backtracked sort of but via the hills and cliffs rather than the beaches.
13
OCTOBER
An awesome sunrise.
The surf
was still small. I tried to organise a motorbike but no luck. But it would be
ready tomorrow.
I hiked
along the beach and river.
Later, I
had another hike to the small rock islands which were accessible at low tide. I
climbed and circumnavigated them. I continued on to the top of headland and
watched some surfing in ordinary waves.
14
OCTOBER
The
motorbike had arrived but we had a lot of difficulty starting it. There was a
lot of confusion and finally I decided to go for a surf and sort it out later.
I got ready and was just leaving when the young guy in the homestay was on my
bike with his surfboard. I thought we were going to for a surf out on the front
reef so I let him drive. BUT!He turned
the wrong way so I figured in was getting another bike for me. We stopped at a
mechanic shop and filled the back tyre with air and drove onwards, Ahh, I
thought still going away from the surf so we must be getting the bike. We
turned off the main road and onto a rough dirt road then another turn off to an
even worse road that looked like a part time river and through a very poor
looking and dilapidated village. On the other side, we were at a beach. I
walked to the beach while he parked the bike. The waves were closing out
ferociously along the beach. I wasn’t happy. He finally got back and he pointed
up the beach and away we walked. At the other end, there was a wild looking
left breaking over a reef and a sort of right beach break. I paddled onto the
left but it wasn’t too good. The right looked better. I caught a few rights and
everytime I paddled out the wave was better. It just kept on getting better and
better and I had it all to myself. Everytime I paddled out there was another wave
to catch. After an hour, the wind turned cross shore and the wave deteriorated.
Such a fun surf. The beach was so pretty with cliffs at one end with more
intense waves breaking in various spots. The lesson I learnt today was to go
with the flow and see where it ends up.
Back at
Ketewe and the wave was very crowded and onshore. Lucky me!
Later, I
took the bike for a ride. I drove down
the steep and rough road to the beach, checked the surf and drove towards the
river. The road/track passed a number of traditional houses and very pretty
ricefields. The road became too sandy and dusty so I backtracked and headed
towards Marosi. Just after the Marosi Beach turnoff, I ran out of petrol.
Either way I looked, the road was empty of traffic, people and houses. After
about ½ hour, I hailed a passing motorcyclist. I explained my situation and
after another ½ hour they returned with a litre of petrol. While I was waiting,
a group of kids were riding on waterbuffalos along the edge of the dried
ricefields.
An adventurous
day!
15
OCTOBER
A morning
surf at the beach I surfed at yesterday. There was a surf chartered boat just
moored off the beach. I paddled out on the right and they caught a small boat
and surfed on the left.
The surf
wasn’t as good as the day before and I also had a few surfers to share the
waves but it was still fun.
Later in
the afternoon, I rode down to the beach to check out the beach homestays and
then up to the far end of the beach for a sit and watch.
16
OCTOBER
A morning
surf at the secret beach.The young guy
from the homestay had to go to school so I drove the bike. I parked at the end
of the beach where there was a home. It seemed safer to leave the bike there. I
had the surf to myself. It was a bit smaller but there were some nice rights
breaking all the way to the tip of the beach. After an hour and a half, I walked back along the beach and had a coconut
at the home which looked very dilapidated and poor. Hygiene would have been an
issue.
Back at
the homestay for lunch and a nap.
In the
afternoon I went for a bike ride to the far end of the beach at Ketewe. It was
a circular drive to get there, which I didn’t do as the road/track came to an
abrupt end a long way from the beach. Still, it was a nice drive through
villages, over bridges and past ricefields.
In the
evening, I as lying on my bamboo bench reading a book when WTF a huge lizard
landed on my groin. In a spilt second I went from prone position to a violated
standing position. No harm done but what a shock. Haha!
17
OCTOBER
I did a reassessment
of my situation in the morning. The surf
though good wasn’t really epic and the power cut out early last night so most
of my electrics were dead flat. I
thought that maybe it was time to go. I tried to change my flight ticket but
there was no response, well it was 6 am. Damn I thought!
At breakfast
I was talking to Petho and asked how much for a car to Wanukaka. I thought to
do something different rather than think about flight changes and power loss.
Such a
good decision! The surf at Wanukaka was good and fun rights. We had a lunch of
fish and rice at Jonnos Homestay hen we got out of the surf. The view from the water
was awesome. Such a great day with good reef waves on my own, a walk around the
small but friendly village, a good lunch and insights on Sumba fishing life.
We got
back to Ketewe just before dark for cold beers and relaxing.
PS I saw
that lizard again hovering above the outside light.
18
OCTOBER
Idrove the motorbike to Wanukaka about 1 ½
hours but the waves were smaller and the tide was going higher so I only had
waves for a short time before it was all over red rover. I had lunch at Jonno’s
then it was a long ride back to the homestay.
I made a
decision and reorganized my return ticket to come back a little earlier.
Other
people arrived that afternoon – a Swiss lady and daughter and her Balinese
partner Made. We had a bit of chat after dinner. Nice people.
19
OCTOBER
I
motorbiked to the secret beach break and had a surf in small fun rights. Later,
a few beginning surfers arrived.
Later in
the day, I had a walk along the beach and a swim.
20
OCTOBER
I woke
had breakfast and then drove over to the secret beach break with the local
young guy in the homestay. The waves were bigger and a little unsettled but
fun. One wave caught me and the board hit me in the chest. It hurt! I caught a
couple more waves but it was distracting painful.
I rested
on the beach and felt better and paddled out for another session. The session
was short as I had a muscle spasm in my back and I was in a lot of discomfort.
Back at
the homestay, I rested and took some medication and slept. I woke and organised
most of my packing.
21
OCTOBER
I woke,
my back felt a lot better and I finished packing and had breakfast. The drive to
the airport at Tambolaka was interesting but there wasn’t much to do when I got
there except wait for the flight to Bali.
Lucky,
that I had reorganized my ticket as my ribs and back were too sore for surfing.
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